We caught up with the brilliant and insightful Ondi McMaster a few weeks ago and have shared our conversation below.

Hi Ondi, thanks for joining us today. What’s the backstory behind how you came up with the idea for your business?

In 2010, I was invited to travel to India for an art residency called “ARTKaravan,” organized by the Indian multimedia artist Inder Salim. The residency brought together a select group of Indian and international artists who traveled across North India publicly sharing their work by creating pop-up installations and art performances across various North Indian cities. Though it was not my first trip to India, it was a significant turning point in my life and career.

During the residency, I had the opportunity to focus my work on the material of Khaddar fabric, a handmade, handwoven cotton that famously symbolized the civil disobedience rebellion during India’s independence movement against the British Colonizers’ forced industrialization. The handmade fabric is still woven across India today. I was inspired by the history and significance of the defiance inherent in this handmade fabric manufacture and knew I wanted to find a way to support the Artisans who created it.

One of the highlights of my residency was a performance I organized called “Our Shadows – a meditation on memory” For this performance, I pre-traced silhouettes of each artist in a meditative pose and cut them out of Khaddar fabric. During the performance, the artists then sat atop their fabric shadows on the main thoroughfare of Shimla, under the golden statue of Mahatma Gandhi, the historic leader of India’s Independence Movement. As I watched the performance unfold, I realized that this was the fabric and cause I wanted to dedicate myself to. In the finale, the performance involved me dragging the fabric shadows down the high street and having the public follow to the next location. Finally, to document the performance, I created a large applique textile using all of these artist’s shadows. This piece was later displayed at JNU University in New Delhi, along with other artifacts from the ARTKARAVAN tour.

Working with Khaddar as an artist in 2010 was a unique experience, as the fabric’s history and popularity had faded from the public landscape. The Artisans who create the fabric were equally under-supported. I committed on that trip to use Khaddar in all of my future designs and to solely support Artisan traditions of hand manufacture in tandem with Gandhi’s rural Cottage Industry principles upholding the sacrosanct philosophies of truth and non-violence in all production and business relationships.

The inspiration for my business directly came from the encouragement of my fellow artists of the ARTKARAVAN who were eager to wear the unique uniforms/costumes that I had designed in this fabric during the residency as well as the incredible fortune I had of meeting an ex-freedom fighter of India’s independence in Patna, Bihar. He was 84 years old at the time and had championed many Khaddar weaving units in the Nawada, Bihar. When I shared my vision of using Khaddar in my designs, he gave me the name ‘Anjali’, which means a devotional offering. From that day forward, I also envisioned my brand named Atelier OM, a design collective based on Gandhian principles. O M are my initials but I also support the YOGIC philosophy of “OM”, the sacred sound that reflects the union of ALL and Everything.

At that time in 2010, there were only a few other labels in India and abroad focusing solely on handspun, handwoven sustainable eco fabrics. I was drawn to the natural tactile beauty of Khaddar fabrics and I’ve continued to use it religiously in my collections since the inception of Atelier OM in 2010. All the production of these purely handmade fabrics supports a vast network of organic farmers, hand spinners, handweavers, and natural dyers responsibly ad every year i have increased my support and production of my fabrics.

Ondi, before we move on to more of these sorts of questions, can you take some time to bring our readers up to speed on you and what you do?

In college, I pursued my passion for art and history, earning degrees in Fine Art (with a focus on painting, sculpture, and printmaking) and Asian History (with an emphasis on Japan, India, and China). I also completed a minor in costume design, which sparked my interest in fashion.

Upon graduating from Mills College in Oakland, I embarked on a multifaceted career in the Design industry. I worked in styling, interior design, and set design for film, which eventually led me to New York City in my early 20s.

In NYC, I had the incredible opportunity to work for ISSEY MIYAKE USA. Spending formative years with the brand, I was privileged to be part of the team that brought Miyake’s vision from the runway to the boutique. His innovative philosophical approach to fabric, cuts, and textiles deeply influenced my design sensibility.

In the mid-90s, I left NYC’s fashion industry to pursue my fascination with traditionally made textiles. I spent two years traveling across India, studying ancestral techniques like bandhani (tie-dye), blockprinting, and handweaving from living artisans. This journey allowed me to build a vast network of contacts and procure unique samples directly from the source.

After my Indian odyssey, I returned back to New York City and ventured into entrepreneurship. I launched a few businesses in art, fashion, and design, though none quite took off. I then pivoted back into the film industry, working as a stylist and costumer for commercials for 10 years.

In 2010, I launched my own international label, Atelier OM, with focus on eco-friendly and ethical production. In 2012, I was ready to expand my business in India. I relocated to Goa in the South, and opened my first Indian shop, OM Khadi. From there, I continued to grow my brand, showcasing my upcycled vintage textile coats, indigos, and mud-resist art block-prints on handwoven cotton and ahimsa silks across the USA at wholesale markets and craft fairs from 2013 to 2019. In 2022 I opened my first USA shop / Atelier OM upstate in Woodstock, NY.

I’ve spent over 14 years establishing relationships with weavers, embroiderers, blockprinters, and natural dyers in India. This foundation has allowed me to create beautiful, sustainable, and Unique textiles for my Artistic collections. I have sold well in the past 14 years and have a “cult” following.

Today, I remain committed to championing handspun, handwoven textiles made from organic cotton, ahimsa silks, local wools, and recycled plastics. I collaborate with renowned artisan houses all across India to create beautiful, ethically-made collections. I am detail-oriented and continue to evolve the business with my amazing artisan partnerships and the range of crafts that Atelier OM is inspired by.

I’ve specifically remained a small-scale operation to stay close to my production and design process. I’m passionate about textiles and ceramics and have recently begun creating earthenware. My work honors ingenuity and skillfulness which are inherent in the process to bring my collections to life.

Looking back at my journey, I’m grateful for the many opportunities and experiences that have shaped me as a designer and entrepreneur – the road less traveled has brought me here. Despite the challenges and obstacles, I’m proud of this path I’ve taken and the positive impact I’ve been able to make on both the world of design and the minds of my artisans who have learned from my passion and entrepreneurship. I have inspired many and I am always most inspired by the joy of creating by Hand.

Let’s talk about resilience next – do you have a story you can share with us?

Imagine waking up to the world as you know it grinding to a halt. The bustling Indian boutique I poured my heart and soul into, now closed. The vibrant community of artisans I’d built relationships with over years, suddenly cut off. The once-thriving business I’d worked so hard to grow, now on the brink of collapse. This was my reality when COVID hit.

But in the midst of the darkness, a glimmer of hope began to shine. An idea sparked – a way to keep creating, to keep supporting the talented hands that brought my creations to life. A textile subscription service, selling meters of beautiful handmade fabric directly to supporters, to keep the lifeblood of my business flowing.

Slowly but surely, the subscriptions started rolling in. Friends, family, and loyal customers rallied around me, buying meters of exquisite silk and cotton, keeping the weavers and dyers working. With each sale, a spark of renewed determination ignited within me. Hope began to take root, even as India remained cut off from the world.

In the spring of 2021, a flicker of light appeared. Locals and small shops started placing orders, relaunching their businesses with my revived creations. I poured my energy into production, watching as the once-dormant workshop hummed back to life. Every stitch, every color, was imbued with a newfound sense of purpose.

By the spring of 2022, I was ready to reopen my shop – but not in India. An unexpected flurry of luck, a series of serendipitous events, led me back to New York and Woodstock. It felt as though fate itself was guiding my steps.

The reopening was a celebration – of resilience, of community, of the unbreakable spirit of creativity. My shop buzzed with renewed energy, filled with the same handmade treasures that had once graced the shelves of the Goa boutique. But now, they carried an even deeper meaning – a testament to the power of perseverance and the infinite possibilities that can emerge from even the darkest of chapters.

As I reflect on the journey, I know it was more than just luck that brought me to this point. It was determination, grit, and an unwavering commitment to my craft. It was the unwavering support of my community, both in India and abroad, that kept me going when all seemed lost. And it was the indomitable spirit of the artisans, who continued to weave and dye and print, even in the face of overwhelming challenges.
The story of Atelier OM is my story – one of survival, of transformation, and of the enduring power of human connection. It’s a reminder that even in our darkest hours, when the world seems to be falling apart, there is always light to be found – if we have the courage to seek it, and the strength to reach for it.

Have any books or other resources had a big impact on you?

In the early 2000s, I embarked on a transformative journey that would shape my approach to business and life. Inspired by the teachings of Gandhi and Buddha, I immersed myself in Tibetan and Vipassana retreats, seeking wisdom and clarity. One pivotal experience was studying with the controversial American monk, Geshe Michael Roach. His course, “The Diamond Cutter,” explored the Dharma and Yogic philosophy and how to apply them to transform one’s life and The World.

Roach’s co-authored book, “Karmic Management: What Goes Around Comes Around in Your Business and Your Life,” profoundly influenced my thinking. Attending his lectures led me to a direct understanding of how to integrate karmic principles into the very fabric of a business, rather than simply overlaying them onto an existing structure. This insight was a revelation, guiding me to build my brand around the practice of karmic philosophy.

Gandhi’s rebellion against British colonial rule serves as a manifest example of the power of karmic principles. By focusing on truth and nonviolence, he was able to mobilize massive social change. In the business realm, adherence to karmic values – treating suppliers, workers all along the chain, and ultimately even clients with dignity understanding, and respect – is essential for long-term success and transformation from outdated models to more inclusive systems.

My journey, inspired by the wisdom of Gandhi, Buddha, and authors like Geshe Michael Roach, has been a pursuit of applying these profound teachings to create a business and life of meaning and positive impact.

Contact Info:

• Website: www.atelierom.com
• Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/atelierom/?hl=en
• Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/AtelierOM/
• Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/@atelierom2725

Image Credits
SID SHEOREY, MARIO DE LOPEZ, ONDI MCMASTER