We were lucky to catch up with Luting Chen recently and have shared our conversation below.
Alright, Luting thanks for taking the time to share your stories and insights with us today. Let’s kick things off with your mission – what is it and what’s the story behind why it’s your mission?
The suit is a rite of passenger in a man‘s life, and the intention of the my brand is to make the suit last a lifetime. The body is analyzed in neutral, obese, and aged form exploring the possible stages of a man’s life and his wardrobe. The pattern cutting innovates darts and folds in garments that can adapt to a lifetime of wear. The mission of my brand is to promote inclusivity and sustainability in the fashion industry, especially menswear.
At the heart of my brand lies a profound belief in the importance of proper fit and sizing. As Cathal McAteer, founder and creative director of Folk, says, “If the fit or size is wrong, the rest does not mean anything, it is all talk. Design can be meaningless if it is not executed properly.” I have developed a unique sizing system that challenges traditional notions, promoting inclusivity and sustainability within menswear. By redefining the concept of sizes and body shapes, I embrace diversity and offer a more responsible approach to fashion.
Our commitment to inclusivity and size flexibility is demonstrated through the data of our garment measurements. The same piece from our collection, designed with our flexible size system, can be worn by men with waist sizes ranging from 28” to 58” and hip sizes ranging from 37” to 67”. This exemplifies our dedication to providing inclusive options that cater to individuals with diverse body shapes and sizes.
Sustainability is also a fundamental commitment throughout my brand. The flexible sizing system helps to avoid waste caused by ill-fitting garments, such as excess inventory during discount sales due to unsold sizes. By accommodating a wide range of sizes, I reduce the likelihood of clothing being discarded due to size mismatches, thus minimizing waste generation.
Moreover, my brand intends to extend the lifespan of products. I acknowledge the natural changes the human body undergoes over time and conduct extensive research on variations in body shapes that occur with age, which has informed my pattern adjustments, including ease, curve, and length, in connection with the traditional size system. With the flexible sizing, customers no longer need to discard clothing when their body size fluctuates. Whether they gain or lose weight, my garments can adapt to their changing needs, promoting longevity and minimizing waste. The ability to pass down a suit or pair of pants from one generation to the next further enhances the lifespan of my clothing, contributing to a circular and sustainable fashion ecosystem.
Furthermore, the flexibility of sizing system benefits individuals who fall outside the standard size range. Many people struggle to find well-fitting clothes that make them feel comfortable and confident, particularly those who are either overweight or underweight. By offering inclusive sizes, I aim to empower these individuals by providing them with clothing options that fit their unique body shapes and sizes, celebrating their individuality. My collection is a statement against body shame, encouraging men of all body types to embrace their uniqueness and feel confident in their own skin.
Through my holistic approach to sustainability, I enhance the overall value of size and provide garments that are timeless, inclusive, and designed to accompany men throughout their lives. The commitment to environmental and social sustainability as well as inclusivity are at the core of my brand, and I continuously strive to push the boundaries of sustainable menswear, redefining the industry and promoting a more responsible and inclusive future.
Luting , before we move on to more of these sorts of questions, can you take some time to bring our readers up to speed on you and what you do?
I am Luting Chen, the founder of the eponymous menswear brand, Luting Chen. In February 2023, I graduated with a Distinction Degree (A+, Top 1%) in MA Menswear Design and Technology from the London College of Fashion. My graduate project received high acclaim, being recognized as the most impressive work of the year by the course leader. It was also hailed as “redefining the ideology of sizes and body shapes in menswear” by Nina Maria of 1 Granary.
My passion lies in extending the lifespan of garments and addressing sizing issues to promote sustainability and inclusivity in the fashion industry. My vision is to design garments that are friendly to men of different ages and body types. Through continuous collaboration with plus-size models in the UK, I have established a strong relationship that enables me to understand their unique needs and challenges.
During London Fashion Week, I had the honor of inviting James Corbin, a renowned plus-size model, to walk the runway for my brand. The positive response further strengthened my resolve to fill the market gap in plus-size menswear, providing elegant and well-fitting options for men of all sizes.
In addition to my collaborations with plus-size models, I had a special collaboration with local elderly gentlemen in London. Together with photographer Laura, we invited seniors from different professions to wear my collection and conducted a photo shoot in a beautiful garden. The experience left me deeply touched by the impeccable lifestyle and irresistible charisma of these British gentlemen.
I invite you to join me in celebrating the timeless elegance that can be found in every stage of life. Let us break free from the limitations imposed by age and embrace the enduring allure of style and sophistication. Together, we can foster a fashion industry that is not bound by age but instead celebrates the inherent beauty and diversity of individuals at every stage of their journey.
Recognizing the potential of my collection, London College of Fashion sponsored me to showcase my second collection at New York Fashion Week. This opportunity allowed me to introduce my inclusive designs to a global audience and gain invaluable exposure in the industry. Additionally, I collaborated with Document Journal to create a powerful fashion film that celebrated inclusivity.
The press coverage for my brand was extensive. Interviews with prestigious publications such as 1 GRANARY, WOO Mag, ES Magazine, The Pink Prince Mag, tmrw Magazine, and KALTBLUT Mag showcased the innovative approach I took in reimagining menswear. The project was not only published at London Fashion Week but also received recognition internationally. I was sponsored to present a runway show in Dubai, where my brand was awarded for its groundbreaking design concepts. My brand also garnered press coverage in esteemed publications like L’OFFICIEL, Bazaar China, and ANON Fashion Mag.
Through my work and collaborations, I aim to reshape the fashion industry by promoting inclusivity and sustainability. By challenging traditional notions of sizes and body shapes, I hope to create a world where fashion is accessible and empowering for all individuals, regardless of their age or physique. With each collection and project, I aspire to push boundaries, inspire change, and contribute to a more inclusive future.
Is there a particular goal or mission driving your creative journey?
My goal and mission in my creative journey is to break the boundaries of fashion, particularly in menswear, and extend the reach of fashion to a wider range of people, regardless of their age or size. I believe that by redesigning the sizing system, we can eliminate the anxiety people feel about their body shapes and sizes. If there were no size labels, would people still define themselves by their body shape? I aspire to reshape the sizing system and help people overcome their body image concerns.
During a conversation with James Corbin, a plus-size model based in London, he mentioned how difficult it is for him to find stylish and high-quality clothing that fits well. As Abby Bible, a plus-size influencer based in NYC, stated, “Unfortunately, a lot of luxury designers exclude the plus-size market because they think we’re all living in temporary bodies.” There are still many gaps in the market for this segment, and few brands cater to the needs of individuals with specific body types. My aim is to fill this void by designing sizes and improving the grading system to ensure that garments fit people of different sizes.
I feel honored to have received many thank-you letters from the plus-size community after the debut of my brand at London Fashion Week. They expressed their gratitude because my clothing made them feel beautiful and elegant, just like mainstream models.
In addition to this, I also strive to create garments that possess a sense of timelessness. I want my clothing to accompany men throughout their lives. I had the opportunity to invite local elderly gentlemen in London for a photoshoot, and their impeccable lifestyle and irresistible charisma deeply touched me. I am grateful for the support I have received in showcasing my brand across different age groups. It has always been my passion to design clothing that lasts a man’s lifetime by creating a sizing system that ensures longevity.
As my course leader once said, “The suit is a rite of passage in a man’s life, and the intention is to make the suit last a lifetime.”
I invite you to join me in celebrating the timeless elegance that can be found at every stage of life. Let us break free from the limitations imposed by age and embrace the enduring allure of style and sophistication. Together, we can foster a fashion industry that transcends age and instead celebrates the inherent beauty and diversity of individuals at every stage of their journey.
Let’s talk about resilience next – do you have a story you can share with us?
Certainly! One story from my journey that illustrates my resilience is when I was working on my first plus-size clothing collection in London. As the fashion industry primarily focuses on standard-sized models and mannequins for fittings, I faced the challenge of finding plus-size models in London to assist me in completing the collection.
Despite the initial setback, I persevered and conducted thorough primary and secondary research on the size system and changes in male body proportions. This research provided me with valuable insights, allowing me to develop new structures, silhouettes, and techniques such as flexible darts to accommodate different body shapes. I also incorporated pattern adjustments for fitting, considering factors like ease, curves, and length, in connection with the traditional size system. Sustainability was an essential consideration throughout the process, including the choice of fabrics and buttons.
Measurement, pattern cutting, and fitting played a crucial role in ensuring that the garments could fit bodies of various sizes and ages, ultimately prolonging their lifespan. I collaborated with plus-size models during the production of the collection, which provided me with firsthand insight into the specific needs of men with different sizes, particularly in tailored clothing. For example, when designing trousers, I conducted comprehensive measurements and fittings on plus-size models to determine the appropriate curves to accommodate their bellies, which differ from those of the standard-sized group. I also incorporated additional processes inspired by bespoke tailoring to enhance the longevity of the garments. For instance, the seam allowance for the back pieces of customized suits was increased to 2-2.5cm instead of the standard 1cm, allowing for future adjustments as the customer’s body changes. Additionally, incorporating ease in various parts of the garment, both during ironing and sewing, enables the suit to fit more naturally.
I dedicated myself to extensive research and experimentation to ensure that the fit and longevity of the garments could be maximized. This resilience and commitment to finding innovative solutions allowed me to overcome the challenges I faced and create a collection that met the needs of plus-size individuals, providing them with stylish and well-fitting clothing options. 
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Image Credits
Campaign Photographer @adrianaroslin Models @davidwrenchmusic @loverylt @keri_krisztian Make up @naomihashida Runway London Fashion Week Photography @rogerdeanphotography Make – Up @mariacomparettoma Hair @toniandguyworld Runway Runway in Dubai sponsorship @sherif_thomas Models @bhnamfarahbakhsh @artemiirosman Hair and Makeup @aofmakeup Photographer @milsaem Shooting with local british older gentlemen Photographer @Laura Polaroid Photographer @alexbeer Model @corbincaptures