We recently connected with Heather Johnson and have shared our conversation below.

Heather, thanks for joining us, excited to have you contributing your stories and insights. Are you happier as a business owner? Do you sometimes think about what it would be like to just have a regular job?

To become a business owner, that was a choice I made early on in my life. I am an apparel product developer. What is that? I help fashion designer bring their designs to life. I draft patterns and sew samples. I oversee the technical design of a product before it goes into production. I am a serial entrepreneur and have had many iterations of a sewing business. My most recent iteration is The Pattern House; I started in 2019. The short answer to this question is yes, I am happier as a business owner. I love the freedom, flexibility and the feeling of control. I do wonder what it would be like to have a regular job. I have even applied for technical design or pattern drafting jobs with larger corporations but because I don’t have any corporate experience, I don’t come off as an attractive candidate. Did I mention I am in my 40’s with two kids. I laugh, believing a business owner is my only choice. How many times have I thought about closing my business to go after a regular job? Every time the going gets tough. Entrepreneurs get really good at shaking it off, picking themselves up and doing it all over again. The morning, I received the email invitation from CanvasRebel Magazine, I was having a moment of doubt about the success of my business and called a friend for a pep talk. How was I going to get all the work finished on time? I just lost another seamstress! It’s so hard to find talented makers! I calmed down and came up with a plan. I opened my email and saw the invitation to participate in this interview. It reminded me that I am not alone in this ever-challenging role of the entrepreneur. For the long answer I have to take you back to my childhood. My mid-west incubation period. My dad’s dad, Melvin started a glass business that has grown into three generations of glaziers. Before Melvin started the family business, he drove around town installing venetian blinds at the top of their popularity. His van had the slogan, A blind man drives this van. My granddad also had a talent for fixing and building cars, so much so that he would make his own tools in order to complete the job. My knack for sewing came from the women in my family. My mother is an artist, puppeteer and teacher. She taught me how to sew when I was five years old, making puppets and telling stories. When I think of my family, such words as free spirited, resourceful and creative come to mind. A blend of mid-west work ethic, respect for all things handmade, an entrepreneurial legacy and the freedom to live in the world of make-believe was leading me straight to fashion. The beautiful intersection of where form meets function. “That’s it”, I declared. “I will be a fashion designer”. But all journey’s come with speed bumps. Upon completion of a B.F.A. in Fashion Design/Product Development, I was told by industry professionals that my portfolio was proof I would not become the next big designer. Blow to the ego, sure but I was able to regroup and focus on my strengths. I am a facilitator of ideas. I can take a sketch, translate an idea into a physical, wearable object. Sometimes it feels like a magic, making something out of nothing. Fast forward past internships, late nights sewing and multiple businesses and here I was again trying to figure out the next step in this game of chess.
Does owning a business come with challenges? We all know the answer is absolutely! Over the years I have had an alteration shop, a small cut and sew facility and now a product development business with a few odd jobs sprinkled in between. Owning your own business is a trust fall. There are a lot of unknowns, but I leaned into the best skill an entrepreneur can have, adaptation. I struggled with self-esteem, not feeling successful or legit. I have struggled finding contracted employees, cash flow, rising rent costs, owning a business while having two children! The list goes on and on. There might be less worries with a “regular job” but those jobs are not necessarily more secure. The idea of consistency, clocking in and clocking out is attractive. When my first child was born, I was so overwhelmed. I literally had a 2-month-old strapped to my chest in a baby Bjorn sewing at a machine, dropping pins on his head. At that time, I didn’t have anyone working with me and it felt right to close my business. It didn’t feel like a failure; I just didn’t have the support I needed to keep going. I then worked as an assistant teacher at a Montessori school for four years because I thought it fit my new life with a small child. I will never forget one of my co-workers pulled me aside and said, “You don’t belong here. You should be using your talents for other things.” Sometimes you need an outside perspective. I realized I could pursue my passions and have children. I live on James Island in Charleston, SC with my husband and two kids and I love being able to take my kids to work with me. My hope is that it gives my kids a sense of pride to see what their mom does, just like I did with my parents. I loved going to work with my dad in the glass shop and I loved helping my mom make puppets. What I have learned is no matter how long you own a business, there will always be challenges. The decision to stick it out is the right choice and the decision to throw in the towel is also the right choice. There is no right or wrong way to work. Business owner or regular job getter, it is just a decision, so go ahead and make it!

Heather, love having you share your insights with us. Before we ask you more questions, maybe you can take a moment to introduce yourself to our readers who might have missed our earlier conversations?

I am Heather Johnson. I live on James Island, across the harbor from Charleston, SC. I have been a professional sewist and pattern drafter for almost 20 years. My most recent entrepreneurial endeavor is The Pattern House, founded in 2019.I created The Pattern House to better assist fashion designers with the development of apparel and accessories. I work with established and emerging designers. in the Southeast region. Together we go from idea to garment. A client could give me a sketch on a napkin and together we will develop the finished product. I help guide with fabric selection, garment construction, pattern drafting, pattern grading and marker making. I help with the technical design, perfecting the desired fit and preparing tech packs for production.

I studied Fashion Design/Product Development at Stephens College in Missouri. I love being a facilitator for ideas. The Southeast is full of amazing designers, and I have the pleasure of growing with these designers and participating in the launch of their collections. Though my job requires a technical eye, it also requires creative problem solving which I live for. I am proud to be an advocate of the slow fashion movement, and it brings me joy to collaborate with clients who feel the same way. I think I offer a unique service because I cater to smaller companies. Out of necessity, my clients have to start small. We work with cottage industry production or cut and sew factories in the US. Most of my clients have the desire to use natural and sustainable fabrics. Sometimes with a gentle nudge, I can educate a client on the importance of sustainability and guide them towards natural fibers, recycled and sustainable materials. Anyone who works in the fashion industry has to reconcile their desire to make new clothing and their impact on the environment. The apparel industry contributes to climate change, generates waste and pollutes our water. I too have to reconcile my love for fashion, and I understand it is my responsibility to implement eco-friendly practices. I love working with smaller companies who create beautiful “slow fashion” that is meant to be loved and worn for a long time.

Does your business have multiple or supplementary revenue streams (like a ATM machine at a barbershop, etc)?

Yes, my business has multiple revenue streams. My main focus is apparel product development and pattern drafting but I also teach sewing classes. I teach private lessons, after school sewing classes at private schools and our neighborhood Rec. Center. I also sell printable PDF sewing patterns for the DIY and home sewist community.

We often hear about learning lessons – but just as important is unlearning lessons. Have you ever had to unlearn a lesson?

I personally had to unlearn the idea that “hard work leads to success”. I was conditioned to work hard and be humble. While these are wonderful qualities, I was in turn minimizing my talents, putting other’s needs before my own and stayed quiet when clients walked all over me. When I first started sewing professionally, I opened an alteration shop in 2008. I was desperate to please my clients. I would stay up late and go above and beyond. There was one unpleasant incident involving a mother-of-the-bride. Oh yes, I was so green I didn’t know the negative stereotype of mother-in-law. She brought in a dress, she tried it on, I pinned it to the desired length and hemmed it. She tried on the altered dress and was unhappy because the drapes and folds of fabric appeared to hang unevenly when she walked. I was convinced it was all in her head. But guess what I did, I went to the bridal shop, I was able to get the sample off the showroom floor and I hemmed it again. Again, she said that the hem was not perfect. She then proceeded to demand that I pay for dry cleaning because the dress was a sample and other people had tried it on. Anyone in their right mind would have told that lady to bugger off but I wanted to please my clients so badly. This was a turning point for me. My mindset was holding me back and potentially hurting me emotionally and financially. It’s not that I didn’t have skills and talent-objectively, I knew I did-but I didn’t believe that what I brought to the table was enough. The shift didn’t happen overnight. It took practice, kindness toward myself, introspection and self-awareness. Fast forward to today and I have had a lot more practice speaking up for myself. I still remain professional while saying no.

Contact Info:

• Website: https://patternhouseservices.com
• Instagram: pattern_house_services
• Linkedin: Heather Johnson

Image Credits

First Picture- Me and dress form- Photographer- Anna Ward
Second Picture- Client- Jahde Atelier- Suede Duster
Third Picture- Client- Vincent James- Wool Blazer and Trousers
Fourth Picture- Client- Vincent James- Wool Dress
Fifth Picture- My original design for Charleston Fashion Week 2018- Photographer- Pale Girl Photography
Sixth Picture- My original design for Charleston Fashion Week 2018- Photographer- Pale Girl Photography