We recently connected with Hairan Zuchelli and have shared our conversation below.

Hi Hairan , thanks for joining us today. Can you talk to us about how you learned to do what you do?

Learning any craft is a process, and the process to research and make historic clothing started before me. My grandmother was the main instigator. She was a professional Modiste and a collector of vintage sewing tools and techniques. Growing up watching her in her studio and demonstrating these tools made me learn in the most amazing way a person could learn a craft, through love and with care, and as I grew up, I realized that not many people can use a SAD iron or knows tambour embroidery or lace making. That gave me the base to seek more and learn more, now through academic research. The most essential skill I think you have to have as a dress historian is knowledge of clothes construction, drape and textile expertise – without those, it is impossible to read a pattern or understand the terminology of old sewing text material. Back then there was not a way to speed the process, since we barely had internet in Brazil and not many books on the theme, but now I would recommend participating in workshops and getting an internship com key maisons / house of sewing/ pleating/ embroidery etc.

Awesome – so before we get into the rest of our questions, can you briefly introduce yourself to our readers.

It was natural that as a designer I soon became a consultant due to my research. So, it happened organically. As I was working for one client on set, someone raised a question about a historic garment and I answered, and soon, the next client appeared. Or someone saw my work on my YouTube and called me to inspect something they had, and if I could help clarify info about the item and soon another and another production asked for help. And that is really my role really, I help others tell a story.
Who are these people that we’re talking about? How are their clothes? Why do their clothes matter? Do they represent anything to a minority? Are they Regalia? How can we say their stories accurately and respectfully?
What makes my work distinct is the fact that I provide not only historical research to back up all my suggestions to the clients, but I also provide all necessary staff training and that way they can have a better grasp of the textiles/ garments but also will know how to make or keep them. For that I became a Multidisciplinary professional, on top of what garment construction I also felt the need to learn Pedagogy and got certified by Cornell University to make sure I had all the tool to reach attentively and positively teams when we needed to portrait diverse minorities.

Can you share one of your favorite marketing or sales stories?

Talking about diversity and respecting minorities is a fairly new subject in some companies. Many owners and CEOs do not see the need to change their business approach since it “has been working for them”. One time I was at the same party as one company owner and I approached him saying that he “needed to hire me”. He was very taken back by this statement of course, then I explained who I was and why he needed to hire me – what I do and what is the issue that the company would face without a person in my role- and he was very satisfied by my direct approach that he called the person of the hiring department and asked me to pitch to them again. I started the same way and they laughed, I laughed too, took a sip and again restarted pointing 2 problems that they were going to face, and I could solve, they asked a couple more detailed problems that I could solve, and they were also very pleased. I gave them my business card – which they complimented the design and the conversation ended at the party but restarted through email and surely enough I was hired. I like telling this story to my students because as young professionals they believe there are many barriers in business life – 1st, most people think you shouldn’t approach “important people”, that’s not correct, do it, “important “or not don’t waste their time. 2nd, they believe a party is not the moment. Utilize your network opportunities well – I probably would never be able to schedule a meeting with him to talk about the importance of a diversity consultant for his production, and 3rd. The role I was applying for didn’t exist, and I got the job, nonetheless. You don’t need to only apply to positions open. All positions that don’t exist are open. Make a solid pitch and apply. You’re seeing a possibility that they haven’t yet. Show them your passion and how you’re amazing for the team.

How do you keep your team’s morale high?

In my line of work teamwork is the only way. Paulo Freire, the renowned Brazilian pedagogue, believed that the good teacher isn’t just “teaching”, but is learning while interacting with the students. And the students are learning while teaching – and if the professor pays attention, he/she will learn how to reach them more efficiently. The same way can be used on any team management. The managers should not think of themselves as Boss x Workers. The manager should listen to the inputs of the team and pay attention to their strengths and assign them to things they can do, and together with the team create standards and rules they can all follow together and if the company has previous standards that are obsolete, change them with your team. Not listening to your team and making the changes they ask for is equal putting people to fail.
For example, if you were you a detective in a murder case, you wouldn’t do it from your desk, you would go in local and ask the witnesses about the crime, the same way is with your team, they are the witnesses of the issue, all you need to do is help them connect the dots. They will feel heard, valued, and helped. Toyota does the 5 questions system to find the issue. That could be a good way to approach problems.
Now, if you have a team that is brand new or that doesn’t have any issues yet, one way to maintain morale is to make them feel appreciated, again if you listen, they will tell you how to do it. Talk to them and listen, be sincerely in the moment. Forget mandatory group bonding training where you climb walls or jump blind folded. Are they excited to watch any movies? How about doing it as a group? Sometimes “Floral Friday” once a month can be fun. They will come up with fun activities. Compliment them often and publicly and complaints or negative feedback can be done privately. And once again, watch their strengths and make sure to put them in the right task according to their strengths and just help them achieve their goals. People love to have successful job, and they get frustrated when they are working hard but they can see their strengths are not a match for the task. It creates a feeling of “why even try if I know I will not be able to make it successfully? “. Preventing that is a management task.
So to recap: Listen to your team, have honest conversations, match the right task with the right person, create standards with your team to and do activities as a group.

Contact Info:

• Website: https://hairanzuchelli.blogspot.com/
• Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/brazilianbaroness
• Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BrazilianBaroness/
• Linkedin: https://www.linkedin.com/in/hairanzuchelli/
• Twitter: https://twitter.com/brazilbaroness
• Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/@hsama
• Other: email: hairanzuchelli@gmail.com

Image Credits
Cobra Kai Broadway Phillip Hammer – Photo by Phillip Hammer rep_2022_hoj_press-06_copy – Photo by Eric Woolsey Photography