We’re excited to introduce you to the always interesting and insightful Dennis Hayes. We hope you’ll enjoy our conversation with Dennis below.
Dennis, looking forward to hearing all of your stories today. What’s the kindest thing anyone has ever done for you?
I had been making wine commercially for several years and received a favorable review by a San Francisco Chronicle wine writer who surreptitiously visited our tasting room. But the big break came when a widely read wine critic (also surreptitiously) showed up. He tasted several of my wines and then took a bottle of my flagship Tuscan Blend (Syrah & Sangiovese) home. A few days later, he published a nuanced review that honored the complexity of the nose, color, taste, and terroir of that blend. He took the time to notice, consider, and evaluate. He praised the “art” of my style. It was a thorough, professional, unsolicited, independent endorsement. And a joyous inflection point on a career that was years in the making. That review put me on the map, and still gets me in the door when offering my wines to restaurants and wine bars.
Awesome – so before we get into the rest of our questions, can you briefly introduce yourself to our readers.
Writing was the platform that launched my winemaking career. It began at a July 4th party in San Francisco when I was interrupted from taking notes on the wine I was tasting by a gentleman. When he understood what I was doing, he asked me to taste – and write about – a glass that he brought me. It was quite good. He was a winemaker, and he invited me to learn the craft. He also introduced me to Tim Patterson, wine author and harvest manager of a small Zinfandel field blend vineyard in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley (DCV), and to Ray Teldeschi, a noted multi-generational DCV vineyard. After years experimenting as a garagista, I branched out into commercial winemaking at a cooperative on Treasure Island. I spent years crafting a style that bucked the big, oaky (and boozy) California winemaking trend. In contrast, my style was restrained, subtle, and involved carefully blending varietals to pair with food. Umbriaso – for the Umbrian style of winemaking I embraced and the Sonoma fruit I sourced – was born. Using Teldeschi’s remarkable grapes, and eventually taking over year-round management of the Zinfandel field blend vineyard, I continue to make wine to pair with fine food.
Can you share a story from your journey that illustrates your resilience?
In March 2020, Covid closed our winery tasting room and restaurants pouring my wines. This cut off my revenue stream. Together with colleagues at the winery, we created a parklet to serve patrons wine outdoors. We later brought in live music (jazz, bluegrass) and worked with caterers and food trucks to create a safe, convivial gathering place during the Covid lockdown. Business began to pick up. I also created an eCommerce component on my website to enable Direct To Consumer (DTC) transactions. Offering complimentary local delivery for minimum orders and nationwide where legal drove online sales. Business boomed. From a shut down in March, 2020 became my biggest – and first profitable – year in the wine business.
What’s the most rewarding aspect of being a creative in your experience?
No one else makes the creative decisions that I have to make. Those decisions define both the style of wine I make and the way I reach my customers. Being creative about both what I make and how I sell it is its own reward.
Contact Info:
- Website: https://www.umbriaso.com/
- Instagram: umbriaso
- Facebook: umbriaso
- Youtube: umbriaso
Image Credits
Koji Iwata, Joanna Chan