We were lucky to catch up with Courtney Phillips recently and have shared our conversation below.

Alright, Courtney thanks for taking the time to share your stories and insights with us today. Let’s jump right into how you came up with the idea?

When I was 20 years old I started a clothing brand right out of design school called 23 Skidoo Clothes. It was such a pure and easy outpour from my heart. The company lasted about two years until I was completely burnt out. Up until that point, sewing clothes was something I had loved doing for most of my life. But the burnout was real.

For years I was digging into the idea of creative expression, almost bothered and unsettled at times by questions like: Is it necessary to show your work to others? Does monetizing your craft kill creativity? What would my work look like if I knew nobody would see it? I also asked sustainability questions like: Is it possible to create work and be trash-free? Can a leather product be made in a way that is good for the earth? Is it possible for a manufacturing facility to function with these practices?

As I gained insight and learned what I valued, I felt the need to make a change in my life. I worked at a leather goods company for over 8 years and was the head designer for most of those years. I loved the work, then slowly grew the itch to go out on my own again. I saw firsthand the interest in one-of-a-kind leather products, and that there was opportunity in our area to offer one-off or custom designed products. I had the idea to fulfill this need, and the pieces started to come together like a puzzle.

One of the pieces of the puzzle was that I have a passion for slow, meditative work. This is contrary to most mass production where the quality can be sacrificed. Another puzzle piece is that I have a conviction to combat the overconsumption of shopping. Our culture has normalized shopping as a hobby, a status, and a false sense of self-fulfillment instead of a need or a thoughtful endeavor. A huge part of what dimmed my creativity with 23 Skidoo was making the same products over and over. After I had designed something and made it a few times, it was like pulling teeth for me to make it again. However with custom designed goods, I knew I would regularly have the opportunity to make something new. That would mean the sky could be the limit for challenging myself. Leather can be made into so many products! I’ve been working on leather bags, accessories, shoes, furniture, home goods, books, baby products, aprons, and more.

To be honest, I didn’t know if I wanted to own a business again. But as I gave thought to what makes me thrive in a workplace and what my strengths and weaknesses are in terms of monetizing my creative work, I became increasingly passionate and attuned to what was next for me. The final puzzle piece I needed to pursue this business model on my own was the support and affirmation I got from my closest friends and family. So just a few months ago I took the leap and started my business, Harkin.

Courtney, before we move on to more of these sorts of questions, can you take some time to bring our readers up to speed on you and what you do?

My name is Courtney Phillips, I am a fashion designer and leathercrafter in Cleveland, Ohio. I have been designing and sewing since I was 8 years old. I began interning for local fashion designers in high school and graduated from the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising (L.A. campus) in fashion design. Since then, design and construction have been my primary industry focus. And now through Harkin, I offer a custom service to individuals to create leather goods specially designed for them. As I learn about my clients, we collaborate on their designs, and make beautiful goods that will last.

My service starts with a consultation where clients visit my studio and we discuss everything about the product they have been dreaming about. I love these consultations. Listening to what people are passionate about and having the opportunity to fulfill a need for them is a special connecting experience. For some of my clients, they are interested in a custom leather good because they want something that fits them perfectly and represents who they are. For other clients, a custom piece is something that would seriously make their daily lives easier and more manageable.

The process of obtaining a custom piece feels old world in the best way. I chose the name “Harkin” because I am building my company around the intention of harkening back to a time when materials were harvested directly from one’s local community to be made into products used right there in the community. Nowadays shoppers are disconnected from the mass produced products we all purchase. We don’t know who made our garments, or the fabric, or what the origin of the material is, or how many countries it went through before it ended up in the shop where we found it. Textiles have historically been an intimate reflection of our lives and communities; I grieve that we have become so disconnected from that norm.

My designs utilize traceable leathers as much as possible. This means each hide I receive has a number on it that the tannery could reference to tell me the farm from which the animal came. The leathers I purchase come from regenerative U.S. farms. Some of the farms are so small that I would even be able to know the name the farmer’s family gave to the animal. Implementing practices like this into my work brings a level of connection and honor when I handle the leather. I value being able to personally know who is creating the materials I use. I visited the tannery, Pergamena, before I officially bought anything from them, and we have a highly supportive relationship and keep in contact regularly through text and phone calls. They are located in New York and are just a drive away from me. I also have goals for providing this same level of transparency for my hardware and thread in the future.

Is there mission driving your creative journey?

My materials matter to me. I could have a gorgeous design but if the material isn’t good quality then the value of the end product diminishes. I think the material can even completely carry the entire desirability of the design. And beyond the quality and beauty of the material is the story. I am driven to have all of my leather come from regenerative farms not only so it’s traceable, but because these farmers are the future of our country’s soil. Because Pergamena and other like-minded tanners work with regenerative farms, designers like me can directly connect to the farmers. It’s strange how uncommon this is. Fashion and farm don’t typically touch, yet we need each other. We have an opportunity to financially support one another and keep each other’s products in demand.

Another outstanding resource I have connected with over the past year is the Rust Belt Fibershed. This community has proved to show how rich we are in natural and relational resources, and how achievable it is to source materials from your own region. I truly believe this is the future of fashion for the good of humankind and the earth. This is how fashion has historically been, and the time is now for the objects we use to reflect and celebrate the people and areas in which we live.

Is there something you think non-creatives will struggle to understand about your journey as a creative?

Harkin is a business, but it is also my creative work as an artist and a reflection of my ideals as a human being. This is why I take my practices so seriously as opposed to cutting corners to scale as big as I can, as fast as I can, which is what we are used to seeing in the fashion industry in the modern age. Sometimes people can be confused as to why someone would pay the price of my products, which is higher than something you’d find at a big box store. But those products are mass produced and designed to last briefly, which spurs unnecessary consumerism. My products are something to invest in because they will be with you every day for the rest of your life. I do what I can to be as accessible as possible by offering payment installments that work for the client. I don’t ever want Harkin to be a brand that is exclusively for the elite. My hope is that this vision for Harkin will motivate others to be thoughtful about their consumption, and inspire them to invest in products that will hold their beauty over time.

Contact Info:

• Website: harkinstudio.com
• Instagram: @harkin.studio